Philippines Part 3: Palawan

navigating a bangka

Okay y’all, this one is a doozy.  The enchanting island of Palawan turned out to be a breath of fresh air and the highlight of my trip.  Within hours of settling in to our room for the week, there was a priest at the door for a house blessing.  A box of candles appeared and soon everyone was following the priest from room to room as he sprinkled the house with holy water.  While the priest was finishing up with a hymn we heard the motor of a tricycle outside.  The lechón had arrived and the party was about to begin.  After some taunting of the kids to kiss the pig’s nose or take a bite out of the ear, the tooth-breakingly crispy lechón was carved up and doled out.  And there was so much left over that we ate lechón-infused dishes for the rest of the week!

Early next morning we were at the wet (fish) market.  I feel that if you want to get a sense of local life and glimpse of the heart of most communities then high-tail-it to the local market.  It’s always top on my list because it helps me grasp the culture and it’s people almost instantly and Puerto Princesa Public Market was one of the best markets that I have encountered.  The fish had just come in, the place was packed and when they say wet…  Just wear shorts and flip-flops, remind yourself that skin is washable and just go with it.  There was also an abundance of fruits, vegetables, rice, meats, dry goods and sweets.  TIP: At any market, be mindful of your things, bring lots of small bills and if you are going to look, stay out of the way because these people have a livelihood to make and if your not buying then don’t block what they’re selling.

Estrella Falls was well off the beaten path and definitely worth every bump on the road.  Cold, crystal clear water, rocky terrain to climb, a rope swing and monkeys everywhere.  I could have stayed all day.  The next two days were spent at the beach.  Local fisherman stopped by regularly to sell their catch of the day and there was an abundance of coconuts if you could just get them!  We awoke before dawn one morning to a karaoke session in full swing – huge in the Philippines – but that just gave me an excuse to swim out and watch the sunrise in the ocean.

Another watering hole we visited was the epitome of local.  The Balsahan River runs right through the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm and the prisoners have worked to maintain a small part of the river for swimming.  The site of the watering hole is at least two bumpy miles in and we were behind a jeepny from town bringing locals in for the day.  I was told that the penal farm is a minimum security prison and colony with prisoners who work as farmers or fisherman on the land that surrounds the prison.  Some prisoners have their families living there with them and can even earn a living by working the tourist gift shop comprised of handicrafts.

We took a quick jaunt northeast to Sabang to get a glimpse of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Puerto-Princesa Subterranean River National Park.  Sabang is at the end of a newly paved road from Puerto Princesa that has cut the travel time to a couple of hours.  The last time Mark had visited the Underground River he rode up to the pier and hired a boatman for the day, but this was a whole new animal.  First, one must obtain a permit as the government has limited the amount of visitors per day in effort to reduce human impact.  Of course the first dibs will go to organized tours, so if you are traveling during high season your best bet is to contact a day-tour agency or you could even try some hotels.

Once you arrive in Sabang you are divided into groups of six and shuffled to one of many bangkas , or outrigger canoes, waiting in a receiving line.  The ride is short and beautiful and the beach where you are dropped off looks like a deserted paradise until you get on the footpath to the check-in point.  The path is packed with tourist coming and going, not to mention some monkeys, monitor lizards and a balding island dog that was “living the dream” but had seen better days.  We actually saw the dog and a monitor get into a fight over some food scraps; the dog won and I think I know how he has lost his hair.  The boat tour of the Underground River is 45 minutes and the guide speaks in Tag-lish but the place is massive and there is a constant squeak from the 40,000 bats that fill the cave.  For the return commute, there is the Monkey Trail.  A two hour hike through the rain forest that connects the Underground River back to Sabang.  Touristy, yes, but there is a reason that the masses descend upon these places…

A cock fight was something towards the bottom of my wish list, but when we had a couple of extra hours to kill in Sabang and Mark spotted two men on a motorcycle holding a dead rooster, we knew the country’s favorite pastime was going on nearby.  We followed the souvenir stalls in the direction from which the motorcycle had come until we came upon a small footpath beaten into the grass.  It looked like it just led to some houses in the distance but there were a lot of people coming and going.  Mark confirmed with a little girl who assured us that we could go take a look.  We went, but I was not going to take out my camera for we were watched suspiciously the whole time.  Of course, I am so pale that there was no chance for us to blend in and soon we had the town drunk in our faces asking us questions and trying to get us to bet.  He could barley stand up and our attempts to converse with him made the others laugh thus easing some tension.  The “cockpit” was a small but beautifully constructed bamboo ring with bleachers and the fight was short and bloody with a lot of money changing hands very quickly.  It was a fascinating observation of a different side of the culture that I had yet to encounter and when I asked what will happen to the losing rooster.  It will be the family dinner, of course.

entrance: Lawiswis Organics

During the short flight from Manila I reached for the in-flight magazine and found that the current issue was all about Palawan.  Skimming through, I found an article about a local man who was unsatisfied with the body products available to him and his family and had started making his own with what he grew on his land.  Three years later, he now sells Lawiswis Organics from his home (really it was a  hillside sanctuary) tucked away in the town of Irawan.  It took me all week to try and find this place before I asked someone to call him for directions.  Jet Sales welcomed us with open arms and spent nearly an hour explaining and offering samples of  his products, all the while offering us food (nilupak - a coconut banana concoction) and drink (tuba - refreshing and effervescent).   He also talked about the Tagbanua tribe that occupied the land behind his and who provide the wild honey that is a key ingredient in most of his products (and it tastes amazing, less viscous than American honey and more earthy in flavor).  Needless to say, we were hooked and we definitely stocked up because Lawiswis Organics is local only, he does not ship.

Palawan has hooked me and I will count the days until I can return to explore the rest of the island.  I already have a list started to what to see next time.

 

Philippines Part 2: Urdaneta

When we were offered a chance to get out of town we pounced.  Manila has many great things to offer but it is still a big city, and coming from a big city all we wanted was some open space.  A family member of Mark’s (Tiffany’s main squeeze who often subs as our cameraman) suggested an overnight in Urdaneta, a sleepy town 115 miles (or four hours!) north of Manila in the Pangasinan Province. Much of the road from Manila to Urdaneta is paved – or being paved – and quite congested but yet farmers were harvesting rice and much of it was being dried on the road with tree branches flanking the edges to warn passing vehicles.  I loved this!  A little farmer-versus-the man rebellion.  Road or no road, my rice has to go to market so go around!

Urdaneta is not a sleepy town anymore.  Motorist, tricycles, pedestrians, freight trucks, resorts, restaurants, markets and… a mall.  NO!  THE MALL EPIDEMIC HAS SPREAD TO URDANETA!  Now Manila is covered in malls, as a lot of big cities are, but what used to be the beautiful Urdaneta town plaza, often used for gatherings and celebrations, has been leveled and cemented into a giant mall.  In fact, one of the very few remnants of yester-year in Urdaneta is a 150 year old Spanish style home across the street from the mall.  The three elderly women who occupy it are sisters and it was their father who owned the land and commissioned the plaza that he eventually donated to the city that said thank you very much and with this plaza I will build a great mall.  We got to visit this relic of another era for a wonderful afternoon.  They, rather their maids, prepared a delectable meal of fresh fish, garlic rice and fruit (oh, the mangoes!) which was interrupted by a raid siren.  After a concerned look around the table they explained that it was a leftover from World War II and is now used as the town’s clock tower, wailing every hour.

After lunch we took a walk around town and in returning to the house we stumbled upon a bonsai grove.  We wandered in awe amongst the twenty-plus bonsai only a few minutes when Norberto “Roy” I del Prado III emerged from his home to greet us.  An incredibly friendly man, he proudly showed us his award-winning work and answered many questions.

We were invited to a birthday party that night.  It was a warm evening and after a couple of beers and some ghost stories on the porch with new friends we experienced one of the Philippines’ infamous blackouts.  The kids shrieked but most of the adults remained seated and continued their conversations in the dark, a few stumbled around lighting candles which have permanent spots strategically placed throughout the house just for this occurrence.

The locals we encountered in Manila were friendly but nothing like the people we met in Urdanteta.  Small town mentality, we were welcomed with open arms and any inquiries or needs that we had were not only answered or met but they were always followed with an offer to help: make the call, give us a ride, translate, even an offer to pay!  A little taste of life in the province was just the reality check that we needed.

 

Philippines Part 1: Manila

Upon arrival at the Manila International Terminal, I got an immediate sense of chaos. This city is booming. Right away I am “tsst-tsst”ed at to get out of the way. This sound can be and is used to hail someone, shoo something or, if you are really familiar with each other, as an entire means of communication. The airport is out-dated and so overwhelmed that they now require the non-passengers to wait across the street behind a barricade until they have spotted who they are picking up; this makes for a hilarious scene of hundreds of people yelling and waiving arms at each other across a street.

We make it to our destination quickly, only because it is 11 o’clock at night, for most of the rest of our limited time in Manila will be spent in traffic.  We spent a maddening three hours in a car to get from Quezon City to Intramuros and the amount of carbon dioxide that we contributed to the already thick atmosphere of Manila was upsetting to me.  That being said,  get a map of the fairly new and continuously expanding Manila Light Rail Transit System (LRT).  And use it.  Ride a tricycle-taxi for the novelty, get lost in a  jeepney (they’re cheap!) and get to know the LRT.

Because of our limited time in Manila we concentrated on Intramuros and Chinatown.  Chinatown was similar to most Chinatowns in other parts of the world but the walled city of Intramuros was lovely.  The ruins of Fort Santiago was a highlight for me – I love old things – complete with a prison, torture chambers and a dungeon.  There is a comprehensive mini-museum of Philippine national hero Dr. Jose Rizal’s life and work with a helpful staff that will practically give you a private guided tour. Take time to explore Fort Santiago, there are a ton of wonderful little gems all around and  it has peaceful green lawns and gardens to plunk down for a rest!

We were able to get a quick peak of the Coconut Palace, and other than that we happened upon the preparations for the first anniversary party of Philippines Playboy and there were interesting characters abound, the “palace” itself is passable.  Other highlights of Manila:

• La Loma – or Lechon City – where the streets are lined with the famously slow-roasted swine-on-a-stick and aggressive vendors who really want you to take one home.
• Pastillas at any number of bakeries in the city, we were taken to and loved Bulacan Sweets, but ask the locals for recommendations (tip: usually the bakers will allow you to sample until you find the variety that you like)
• Tiendesitas – an outdoor shopping and culinary delight.  Anything you could want or need should be here.  Because it is so hot in Manila and it is an outdoor market, go in the evening.  Shops stay open as late as 11p.m. – or 1a.m. during Christmas season – and the food stalls are so numerous that you will take 20 minutes just to stroll through them all.  Place your order and point out the table that you are occupying – preferably topped with a bucket of local beer, San Miguel – and they will bring the food to you while you sit back, relax and listen to musicians and bands performing.
• SPIT (Silly People’s Improvised Theater) is a group of young artists who perform all over the city.  The show is in Taglish (Tagalog-English) which in itself adds another element of humor for the non-Tagalog speaking.  We caught their show at mag: net cafe, a vibrant spot with a tasty menu, music, poetry and contemporary art gallery.

 

Pit Stop: Something Sweet

The road ways is a new feature, a set of “shorties” and mini-breaks that are quick, close ways to take a break without leaving home, because you don’t always have to venture far to get away…

We’re not sure exactly who Melissa is, but that isn’t stopping us from calling her out new best friend. Anyone who bakes as she does would have to be. In the city where the cupcake craze began, and where it’s gone hog wild, folks tell themselves apart by their cupcake allegiances (we know some Magnolia folks, but we happen to be Sugar Sweet girls ourselves), so it didn’t seem like there was room on the block for yet another cupcake.

Enter Melissa, whose pint-sized booth, Baked by Melissa, has been sending Soho shoppers into a frenzy. We’re talking lines down Spring Street like you’ve never seen them (and that’s saying something for Spring Street). Oddly enough, these folks aren’t the usual grumpy, hate-being-stuck-in-crowds people you’re likely to see on New York streets. Why? Because they know that what’s up ahead is cupcake bliss, in flavors from traditional red velvet to fun varieties like peanut butter and jelly and smores.

The best part? These are not just cupcakes but bite-size bits of goodness that solve the sweet lover’s dilemma: which should I taste? At around the size of a ping pong ball and just a dollar a pop, your wallet, and your tummy, can afford to try them all. And why shouldn’t you. We now think of Spring Street as an itty bitty path to heaven.

Baked by Melissa
Spring Street between Mercer and Broadway
Hours: Open daily from 11 am until 8 pm

 

“Da Bronx” Part 2: Brazil in Bloom

The cemetery was lovely, though certainly no reprieve from the cold weather. We wandered for nearly two hours, and finally boarded the Metro North with frozen hands and chilled bones. But at the New York Botanic Garden, less than four miles away, we entered a rain forest.

The garden’s seventh annual orchid show, Brazilian Modern is the ideal remedy to the winter dodrums. Colorful, fragrant, and oh-so-tropical, this show is a floral wonderland, with each turn of the corner revealing more astounding beauty.

Raymond Jungles has created a true living work of art, with 30,000 colorful species of orchids from every continent except Antarctica. And, it’s warm! In fact, it’s so lovely, you won’t want to leave. Pools, fountains, sculptures huts and tons of information about preservation mean this show has a little bit of everything: there’s beauty , of course, but also a bit of history, some science and then there’s that whole “transportation to another world” aspect. It doesn’t get much better than this.

The Chocolate and Vanilla adventures portion of the program turned out to be exactly what it should have been: for little kids. But they humored us anyhow, not pretending that we didn’t belong or that we should know without tasting which jelly belly was which flavor (red is vanilla, no?). The show ends April 10, so get there now.

Trip Planning:

The New York Botanical Garden
Bronx River Parkway at Fordham Road
718.817.8700
nybg.org

• Show runs now through April 10
• Cost: an all day pass to the garden includes tram access and access to the show: Adults $20, Seniors/Students $18, Children $8
• Hours: 10 am to 6 pm Tuesdays through Sundays (closed Mondays except federal holidays)
• Get there on the B, D or 4 train to Bedford Park Blvd. Station or take the Metro-North Harlem local line to Botanical Garden Station (tip: on weekends, save on your Metro-North ticket by getting a weekend pass)

 

“Da Bronx” Part 1: Woodlawn Cemetery

We’re still waiting for spring to, well, spring. The few teases over the past couple weeks have only made the remaining chill of winter that much harder to bear. But if you, like us, are craving a little warmth, go out and get it. We did. In fact, we went all the way to the Bronx (gasp!) for it. And we weren’t disappointed.

Woodlawn Cemetery

We started out the day at Woodlawn Cemetery, where it turned out a dreary day added a little to the ambiance. Established in 1863, Woodlawn is 400 acres of lush lawns and stunning architectural feats that often don’t feel like mere memorials. Woolworth rests there, in good company with Mr. Macy, Mr. Julliard and Irving Berlin. Woman’s Rights activist Susan B. Anthony also has a large memorial for herself, along with many family members, but perhaps the most impressive is jazz great Duke Ellington, whose family plot is large but understated. Marked by Flanked by two simple crosses, the gravestones rest in the shade of a large, lovely tree, and a silence both peaceful and ironic given the Duke’s life of music.

There is something very calming about the cemetery, and, not surprisingly, something a little eerie about it as well. But eerie in a good way. We both enjoyed the cit of history we acquired: looking back at century-old graves and knowing, however weather-worn they are, these names still survive. It’s an interesting look at society and how we memorialize, and the sculptures that interspersed with ornate mausoleums and simpy headstones were nothing short of moving.

The folks at Woodlawn are incredibly nice. They were setting up for a discussion in the chapel when we stopped in, and took the time to draw us a route so that we could traverse the whole cemetery and not miss any of the VIPs (we happily agreed that Mr. Robert Moses was “too far away” to visit).

It was a lovely, peaceful afternoon, but we both agreed that very soon it will be even lovelier, and the folks at Woodlawn seem to agree. They have a whole array of events planned for April and May, from walking tours to concerts.

If you Go…

Webster Avenue & E. 233rd Street (Main Gate)
Phone: (718) 920-0500
Toll Free: (877) 496-6352

Hours: 8 am until 5:30 pm daily, with shorter holiday hours. Click here for complete information.

Maps are available at the entrance.

Take the 4 to Woodlawn or the 2 or 5 to 233rd St.

 

Underground Brooklyn Tunnel Update

Check out this video on ABC about our tunnel!

 

Underground Brooklyn: Uncovering the Historic Tunnel

That there is a manhole in the center of the crosswalk at the intersection of Atlantic Ave. and Court St. in Brooklyn is nothing surprising. That is probably the most used manhole in all of New York is a little more interesting…

Beneath the surface of this stretch of street lies a cavernous underground train tunnel built in 1844, the world’s oldest subway tunnel. In 1979 Bob Diamond went on a quest for this tunnel and was told by countless  “experts” that it did not exist (or was filled with water, poisonous gas or giant man-eating rats). Turns out, experts sometimes get it wrong. One day, in the office of an MTA official, Diamond asked if there were any files that were not looked at. He was presented with an old trunk, and after the lock was broken, found that the trunk held the deed for Brooklyn between the Dutch and the Canarsee Indians and an old map labeled “Atlantic Avenue Tunnel.”

After this discovery of the tunnel, Diamond founded the Brooklyn Historical Railway Station and has been giving tours every since. Over the course of an hour and a half underground, he tells a complete history of the tunnel and the story of his discovery. He’s thorough, witty and intensely knowledgeable, and his passion for the project is contagious.

The tunnel is an original branch of the Long Island Railroad, built at the behest of Cornelius Vanderbilt, at first above ground in the 1830s to connect the Erie Canal to Boston and then moved underground after a series of pedestrian accidents slowed down the train’s connections with the canal. The tunnel closed in 1861, but did not fade into obscurity just yet. For years to come it would be the stimulus of much lore, rumored to be the Goonies-esque treasure trove of river pirates (we looked for one-eyed Willie), a dumping ground for dead bodies and the hideout of German saboteurs, to name just a few.

Then in 1979 a young college student named Bob Diamond heard a press release on the radio about The Cosgrove Report, a book about the Lincoln assassination that claimed the missing link to the conspiracy theory could be found in the lost pages of John Wilkes Booth’s diary, which were buried in a locomotive somewhere in a subway tunnel under Brooklyn. Nine months of research later, Mr. Diamond found the entrance to the tunnel underneath that manhole.

End of story? Not even close. The tour ends at a jagged wall, behind which Mr. Diamond believes is the lost locomotive, if only we could get to it. There is new hope, though, in the form of Trey Nelson of Hungry Man Entertainment, who is working on a documentary about the tunnel and its secrets. It’s a film as much about the past as it is about the future, hopefully a means to finally get the city to open up that wall and see what’s behind it. Mr. Diamond’s hopes for the future? A Brooklyn trolley that would run on one side of the tunnel while the tours continue on the other. We’re hoping for that too.

Additional Information…

Curious Expeditions: check out this very cool article with great photos of the tunnel.

New York Underground: a fascinating book about “what lies beneath” New York; check out Chapter 15.

For Trip Planning:

• Tours usually take place once per month on Sundays, though it’s looking like they may start happening more often. Click here to see when the next tour will be.
• Groups meet at Atlantic Avenue and Court Street. You’ll know you’re in the right place by the long line alongside Trader Joe’s.
• Reservations are required. Call 718.941.3160 to make a reservation.
• Tickets are $15, cash only.
• Wear sneakers or boots, preferably something you don’t mind getting muddy. Since it’s dank and a little chilly, bring a light jacket, and a flashlight if you have one.

 

Nature Calls: Ano Nuevo Elephant Seals

Irony:  Ano Nuevo State Beach is not far from where Suzanne grew up, but Tiffany saw the seals first. Thank goodness for video,  and road ways! Watch out for the rare live birth T. caught (you’ll know it by the birds eating the placenta) and for a male fight at the end.

This rocky point just south of San Francisco, named Punta Ano Nuevo because it was first sighted by Spanish explorers on New Year’s Day 1603, is best known as the site of the largest mainland breeding ground (in the world) for the massive and marvelous northern elephant seal. For many years elephant seals were hunted for their oil and  the species was nearly wiped out until protected in 1922. Males stretch between 14 and 16 feet long and weigh up to 2 1/2 tons, and are known to fight during breeding season. It’s a sort of mating ritual to determine the alpha male, who will do most of the breeding (think the really obnoxious drunkards at your local bar, then add a couple tons).

If You Visit…

To protect the seals and minimize disturbance to their routine, visitation is regulated year-round, and regulations vary based on the seasons.

December 1-14: Known as pre-season, this is the time when pregnant females begin arriving and forming harems.

December 15-March 31: Breeding season is the peak time for visits, the time when females give birth, nurse their pups and then breed to do it all over again. Also the time when males strut their stuff, battling for “breeding access to the females.” During these months, visits are limited to naturalist guided walks that must be booked in advance.

April 1 to August 31: Molting season, the time when seals come ashore to shed their “winter coats.” Visitors may head out on self-guided hikes after obtaining a Visitor’s Permit.

September 1 to November 30: Seals begin returning to feed, but the one to three-year-olds start to “haul out” to remote beaches. (Note, Suzanne has, on authority of her mother, that she visited as a child and there was but one seal. Suzanne has no recollection, but guesses it may have been in September when few seals were present. Plan your trip accordingly, if possible.)

The park is generally opne from 8 am until sunset. Pricing is on a per vehicle basis. For full visiting details, hours, fees, etc, click  here.

To further enhance the experience, stay at the Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel. Not only is it a certified green business, it’s cozy, affordable, and, well, a lighthouse, one of America’s tallest lighthouses at that. Oh, and then there is that little thing called the oceanside hot tub that is perfect for pelican and whale watching. Not to be missed.

 

here we go

We’re starting our journey close to home, exploring spots in and around New York City to get our feet wet, with the goal of uncovering affordable and amusing adventures both close to home and far afield. We aren’t sure where we’re going from there, but stick with us for tips, cheap thrills and funny videos of our adventures along the way. We’re not sure where this journey will take us, but we’re excited about the “getting there” part. Here we go!